Cosmic Perfume

A first fragrance under her own name leans considerably more grown-up than the packaging might suggest at first glance, Kylie Jenner's opening move in the category. Star jasmine and blood orange open Cosmic Perfume luminous and citrus-floral, an immediately appealing top accord. Amber and red peony build a warm, romantic center, richer than most celebrity fragrances attempt this early in their opening minutes. Musk, vanilla and cedar settle into a clean, lasting drydown. This Cosmic Eau de Parfum is classed as amber floral, and it's built for evening wear, dense enough that the sculptural bottle isn't the only ambitious part of the release. Blood orange, chosen over a standard sweet orange, gives the top accord a slightly tart, almost bitter edge that keeps the whole opening from reading as simple candy-sweet fruit, a small but deliberate choice that separates it from the more generic celebrity fragrance formula. For a fragrance riding on a famous name, the amber-peony pairing at its center holds its own against far more established competitors on the same shelf, which isn't always a given in this particular category, and the bottle's sculptural, mirrored cap has already become something of a collector's item among fans separate from the fragrance itself.